November 12, 2008

Whenever coffee comes up in conversation here, I’m frequently asked, “Which is the best coffee chain in London?” For the Melbourne readers, this is an entirely valid question in a city of ‘high street’ shopping where brands dominate everything from retail fashion, packaged sandwiches and ‘Italian’ restaurants and the independent barista is hard to come by. So, I have chosen to review the three most prevalent coffee chains in London: Starbucks, Costa and Caffe Nero. Which one is the best?

Starbucks: I remember my first experience of Starbucks at 17 years of age with a black filtered coffee on a United Airlines flight to the US. I came back to Australia thinking I was really onto something. After arriving to live in London some years later in 2005, and having developed a taste for coffee from our wonderful cafes in Melbourne, it was the only coffee I could rely on in the high street. The staff are clearly well trained in Starbucks as the quality is consistent with the milk always at the right temperature, there are no lattes with an identity crisis of a cappuccino (too foamy), and the espresso and filtered coffee is never bitter or over extracted. The staff are friendly and efficient and have that “the-customer-is-always-right” attitude about them. Personally I find Starbucks too bland however with no ‘wow’ factor in the taste, and it’s very weak in a latte or cappuccino.

Costa: Costa has to be one of the most variable in terms of quality. At best it is bearable in standard if you keep the take away lid on and try to ignore the giant bubbles that are sometimes synonymous with their ‘lattes’, and on other occasions it has provided notes of dishwater. When I decided to write this review recently, I visited the Costa at Waterloo and there were coffee granules spilt over the work bench, used coffee still sitting in the portafilters and dried milk on the outside of the jugs (a poor indication of cleanliness and general pride). Afterwards I had the sudden urge to brush my teeth to cleanse the aftertaste. I am informed by a friend, however, that the paninis and muffins are the most delicious out of the chains. Costa was set up as a roastery in 1971 by two Italians. My question is: what has happened since?

Caffe Nero: Amongst coffee lovers in London that I have met, this is the chain that we generally seem to agree on. Though not quite as consistent in quality as Starbucks, the coffee is much stronger with a smoky and nutty flavour that tends to hit the spot. I do think the strapline of “The Italian Coffee Company” is a bit of a stretch though – the last time I was in Italy any take away coffee cups weren’t large enough to store a milk pale, and there certainly wasn’t any suggest-selling of muffins or pastries. However, this is the best quality high street coffee I think you will find in London.

There is a place for both small businesses and high street chains, and we all have different tastes in the café experience and style of coffee. I do believe that there are small businesses operating on much lower margins and budgets providing a far higher quality coffee and experience in London (eg. Monmouth, Flat White, Climpson & Sons), however the high street chains do much to provide employment and a product that many UK customers enjoy. And as far as the high street chains go, I believe the pick of the bunch is Caffe Nero.

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2 Responses to “London coffee chains: Which is the best?”

  1. Eric says:

    Great Review Kylie,
    My experience with Starbucks here in the US has been entirely not good. I find their baristas generally rushing and or doing things that should never be done when making coffee (not wiping the steam wand, putting the wand in the jug and leaving it while doing something else, consistently over or under extracted pulls) leaving me at the point where I simply can’t stomach giving them my money. I also think the ethos of Americans that coffee should be “hot” and I mean smouldering hot, doesn’t necessarily agree with the coffee sensibilities of a Melbournian – where an immediately drinkable temperature is the goal (at least where I learned to make coffee that was clearly the aim).

    I personally don’t like the fact that over here in the US the smaller cup is nearly twice the size of a regular cup as you need a double shot just to maintain any sense of strength of flavour, and I can really do without the giant cup of milk that comes with it.

    I have wondered for a little while how much incentive there is for a starbucks barista to attempt to churn out good coffees in the US when they are making 8 bucks an hour and the place they work at has a queue 20 feet long. The brand recognition is there – not the emphasis on excellent coffee. If these US practices are similar in Australia, it is no wonder that Starbucks failed dismally and withdrew operations as the local fare is much, much better.

  2. peregrinari says:

    I was so unbelievably disappointed with the coffee scene in London. I visited the city, for the first time in June/July last year after spending some time in Asia. In most parts of Asia, perhaps with the exception of parts of Cambodia and Laos I had put up with some pretty crappy coffees, even from the likes of Starbucks – I mean afterall, they’re more tea-drinking type places.

    I had it in my head that the London cafe scene would be somewhat like Melbourne’s, but of course, like you’ve noted it’s nearly 100% chain stores there.

    I agree that they serve a purpose but they’re just so impersonal – cookie cutter relaxation.

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