January 15, 2009

Kramer Books & Afterwords

1517 Connecticut Ave NW

Washington DC

kramerbooks

Like Schwarzenegger in Predator, I thought my coffee trip to Kramer Books and Afterwords was going to be a quick in and out operation, however much like “Dutch” discovered, my mission unexpectedly ended up taking a great deal longer (although admittedly with a far lower body count and physical battery). DC has a lot of policy wonks who like to read books and drink coffee at all hours of the day. So it makes sense that the ‘coffee joint in the bookstore’ is a commonly occurring phenomenon. Some of them are even pretty good (see Modern Times as an example). So, is the coffee at the KB&A simply fuel for a ferocious page turner, or does it challenge the steely concentration of the bookworm to pay attention to a different sense altogether? This was what I aimed to figure out.

I ordered a caffe latte and thanks to the machine being in the middle of the store I got a great position right next to the barista to watch this thing unfold. I asked for the smallest cup possible to-go hoping for an 8oz, but the 16 oz cup (that’s a whopping 473ml for you metric buffs) that emerged had me a tad concerned. Observing the brew’s construction was a unique experience – the barista not so much tamped as massaged the coffee (several times) into the group head. The resultant screams of the milk jug had me convinced that I was riding the bus down a road called disaster and rightfully so – I received an overly diluted, milky coffee with minimal fullness in the mouth feel. However underneath all that milk, there was relative silence, flavours too difficult to discern as the pull was heavily muted by the milk. Intrigued, I had to go back and sit down to find out just what this barista was capable of with a naked 7 grams.

Second visit, different barista. I asked for an espresso, but a wink and a smile convinced me to go for a double…so why not up the ante? What I received, was that same 16 oz cup I received on the first visit, that was HALF FULL of an overwhelmingly sour “espresso”. Basically undrinkable. Now I want to say upfront, I have had some excellent coffee here in Washington (and the absolute cream here is on par with Melbourne’s finest) However, if there was ever a classic illustration of the perceived chasm between the American and Australian approach to espresso coffee, this is the poster child.

No beans

Coffee: Unknown

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January 8, 2009

Artfully Chocolate and Kingsbury Confections
1529c 14th Street NW
Washington, DC
img_1186Happy New Year to all MCR readers from the USA! If you think the name Artfully Chocolate and Kingsbury Confections is a mouthful, you should try the chocolate at this place. In short, it is spectacularly delicious and there is a massive variety of forms of choco sure to blow out your waistline in no time. The chicly-styled, chocolate store has a loft feel to it which can trick the average daydreamer into believing you were somewhere South of Houston in Manhattan as the huge open concrete floored space is packed with brightly coloured artwork, mosaic topped tables and a great seated area that is a superb place to whistle away a wintry Saturday morning. Great chocolate aside, we came here for one thing alone – espresso coffee. I ordered my regular macchiato and was greeted by………a cup of bubbles. As the picture depicts, the drink would have made a good beer, as it was nice and “froffy” on top. However I’m a deep dude, and can look beyond the physical into the soul – in coffee parlance this means the true test comes when the drink crosses the lips. In this case, not so delicious. It was strongly bitter, with an unpleasant aftertaste, giving the temperature sweet spot a wide berth and nicely cooking the roof of my mouth. No beans and a bummer of a way to start the new year – but I think I’ll console myself with another choccy…..

Beans: (Still searching…)

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December 17, 2008

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Can you imagine if all Melbourne cafes served only Grinders beans? If you love to drink nothing but Grinders you might think that’s a dreamy scenario – but honestly, you’d be missing out on some really nice beans. Well, in DC they have a Counter Culture obsession and Big Bear is another ship in the sea of DC cafes that use it. It’s a strange thing, because many of the DC cafes that seem to be geeking out on coffee all choose this brand of bean, and while I have had a couple of really good Counter Culture coffees, nothing has warranted a 3 bean victory cigar to date. Yet counter culture gets a lot of kudos around the traps, making me wonder aloud; in this nation obsessed with brands, is far more emphasis being misguidedly placed on the brand of bean than all the other important variables that go into a truly excellent coffee experience? Maybe I’m over analyzing…….

Universal puzzles aside – Big Bear has the best interior for a cafe I have seen in the DC area, ruggedly stylish with exposed brick, lots of windows and effective use of black paint around the counter area. It’s
a largish rectangular space on a residential corner, which had a small market outside when we went there giving it a very neighbourly feel.

Unfortunately the numerous laptop users (a pet hate of mine all too abundant in US cafes) sucking up bench space drove us to sit outside in the cold, which meant I had to enter some heavy negotiations to get my short mac in a porcelain cup, lest I wander off with it afterwards. The latte, however, would have to come in paper, “Sorry”.

one, one bad one……Watching the barista pull the shot was a real pleasure. With the machine turned to face the cafe, I could observe every step of the drink’s development. It was great to see a nice mouse tail flow out of the group head as I hadn’t really had the chance to observe one up close in DC. By this point I was really getting my hopes up for a nice cup of coffee. My Macchiato wasn’t at all bad. It had hints of chocolate, and was smooth across the front of the palate with only a slight bitterness at the end. The latte, however, was a vastly different story. Unfortunately they gave the milk-temperature sweet spot a wide-berth, which killed any hope I had of tasting what might have been a nice pull underneath. Back to the usual pattern, one good one, one bad one………

One bean.

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December 15, 2008

1847 Columbia Rd. NW
Washington D.C. U.S.A.

napoleon

Fierce French historical icon Napoleon Bonaparte once quipped: “Women are nothing but machines for producing children”. Similarly, espresso machines are nothing but machines for producing coffee and when both work properly, things usually turn out pretty perfectly. It seems fitting then that my recent coffee at Napoleon, in the DC neighbourhood of Adams Morgan, was nothing short of perfection.
Naturally, in keeping with the Napoleonic theme I felt compelled to order a coffee that was both short and powerful. My current tipple of choice (and lone weapon against a bankable case of seasonal-affective-disorder looming somewhere in mid January’s snow and ice) fit the bill – a (short) macchiato.

Thanks to my kid’s ATV-style stroller preventing me getting through an impossibly narrow front door, I had to get a to-go cup. Considering the plush interior of the place I wasn’t even sure if they would accommodate my request, but I asked anyway and it was no problem. The room full of brunching young trendies made me wonder if the narrow door was actually a (seemingly successful) tactical ploy to keep the fatties outside. Seriously, this is a happening joint.

Down to the meat and potatoes – the coffee itself was stupendous. The milk foam presented as a thick, lush dollop which crested a beautiful golden-coloured crema. There was not a trace of the dishwashy bubbles that I despise in my drink. The drinking texture was unique for this part of the world; thick, silken and chocolatey on the front of the palate with a sweet nutty flavour on the back. There was absolutely no bitterness at all. You’ve heard of near-death experience, well by MCR’s definition this coffee was a near-sexual experience. It eclipsed anything I have consumed in Washington DC to date, and that’s saying something as there have been some very good drinks recently.
I’m a fussy bastard most of the time when it comes to coffee, but I can’t really criticize this one in any way. Just too bad I couldn’t sit down and have another one. 3 beans, no questions asked.

Beans: Lavazza

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